Trouble shooting a new install

After installing a new clutch pack, you may find it doesn't disengage properly or you are grinding teeth. Don't despair, you need to finesse a few things for Italian tractors to shift properly.

Clutch lever - Check before the install

When installing a new clutch pack, always ensure the clutch lever parts have not been bent and are not worn out. The clutch lever engages the throw out bearing to depress the pressure plate fingers. If the lever is bent, cracked, worn badly or the bracket looks sketchy, it probably is and needs to be repaired or replaced. Remember, it's not rocket science, it's just a lever - but it has to move the bearing enough to disengage the clutch. Check the lever, bracket and bearing carrier. The bearing carrier can have some pin wear because it's self aligning, but everything else should be pretty good. These parts need to be in good usable shape.

Installing and Adjusting the cable

The cable is usually the responsible party if trouble arises, but not always. Take a good look at the cable install and compare it to the parts diagram in our manual and resource section (Pasquali parts 018). Notice the cable stop is at the top of the cable after you thread it through the clutch arm. Threading the cable:

1) Normally there is a round steel "slug" with a counter sunk hole located below the clutch pedal arm. This is the first thing you thread your cable through. The cable end terminates in the counter sunk hole. Older tractors didn't have a counter sunk hole in the slug. If the thin part of the cable end is too large to go through your "slug", you may need to drill the hole slightly larger to accommodate it. Just ensure the hole is smaller than the end so it can't pull through. Once the slug is on, thread it straight up through the floor board.

2) The next step after it is through the floor board is to thread it through the "wheel adjuster".  The most important piece is the wheel adjuster (9088) that is at the floorboard by your left foot. Without that adjuster, you will have nothing but problems. Where the cable enters the tube on the floorboard, there should be a wheel adjuster like on a bicycle brake. Back the wheel adjuster nut all the way to the top to gain as much slack as possible. Now add the cable sheath and thread the cable and sheath through to the front. 

3) Then after removing the battery box ( some people don't remove it, but it's challenging not to) move the clutch lever all the way back, thread the cable through the conical spring, then through the clutch arm. Pull the cable tight and tighten the cable end stop leaving about a 1/16 inch gap at the cable end stop for free play. (The cable end stop is the barrel slug with a bolt in it that the cable threads through). Make sure you have a cone spring on your cable. (This prevents the bearing from dragging). You should now have a bit of free play so that the clutch lever is not touching the throw out bearing. Ensure there is a bit of free play and get a feel for what that is like at the pedal. You can now use the wheel adjuster to fine tune or take slack out as the cable stretches over time. (You do not want the throw out bearing to be engaged except when you push the clutch pedal in. This can be challenging with an original pressure plate, as they may be worn enough that it needs engagement to fully release).

What it should shift like

Once everything is installed and adjusted, recognize the tractors age. Thirty five years ago, tractors were not meant to be driven like cars. Don't be in a hurry, because you will simply become frustrated. If you are trying to achieve the ability to speed shift a 1976 Pasquali 993, you will be reduced to tears, it just won't happen. A new clutch will not 'correct' the situation. It's a tractor. Let the tractor idle down, push the clutch in, wait a second or two and slip the tractor into gear. Do not shift while the tractor is moving unless you are an expert. Start out in 3rd gear, it's okay. While the early Pasquali's were advertised to have syncro-mesh transmissions, believe me - they did not. There are no syncro components in there. There are only straight cut gears sliding on a keyed shaft which is an ingenious shifting methodology, but it is what it is. Relax, slow down, breath slowly and live life in the moment. You are on a tractor - have fun. 

release bearings

The release or "throw out" bearing should be replaced unless you have replaced it very recently. At the very least, grease the bearing using a needle grease attachment by gently working it under a seal. The most common Pasquali bearing uses the two shaft carrier and the bearing can be replaced with a 6007-2RS. You need to remove the bearing from the carrier, then remove the center (face) from the bearing. (This can be done manually, but much safer using a press). Ensure the face is not worn excessively, as it will create excessive throw on your clutch lever. We carry new release bearings, replacement faces, new carriers or the entire assembly. Normally the bearing will be the only component needing replacement.


Many customers prefer the newer style diaphragm plates. These are replacement plates that are now available and require no setup. They work well although for the 988 they seem to have less contact area than the originals.

​tightening up BOTH STYLES

When installing pressure plates (old or new style) always work your way around the perimeter of the plate tightening about 1/2 turn at a time. This will ensure you don't tweak the plate during install. The final tightening of the bolts should be done with a torque wrench and should be tightened to 17 foot pounds. Don't over tighten bolts, it does more harm than good.

Adjusting finger height is easier said than done, because at the factory they "stake" the adjustment nut by folding in the top of the nut against the adjustment slot. This ensures it won't move once installed. By the judicious use of a "Dremel Tool" or rotary grinder with a fine point, you should be able to clean up the "staked" area enough to readjust. Adjust the three fingers to exactly 20 mm, using Loc-Tite and stake the nuts again.

original PRESSURE plates

The Pasquali three finger pressure plate is a robust, strong plate. There is usually no reason to change it out unless damaged or the spring tension has failed from heat. We like the three finger plate, but admittedly, it takes a bit more work to get them dialed in. Do not simply button up the tractor after adding a new clutch disk, as the pressure plate needs to be set up to work well.

The Pasquali plate needs to have the three fingers adjusted to 20 mm above the outside flange of the engine housing. You need a special tool to do this. The tool is easily made of steel, plastic or cardboard - but it needs to be used for optimum results. Newer diaphragm plates need no adjustments.

making The Tool

At the right are two tool examples. Both are 11.75 inches wide. The lower tool is a bit better to use as the higher spring cups used on the 988 models will fit under the tool. The outside legs are set on the engine housing and the three plate fingers are adjusted to the center height which is 20 mm higher than the legs. The tool legs are .908 wide, 1.25 inches high (inside), 2.810 high (outside) and the center is 3.6 inches wide in the middle. The critical measurement is 20 mm height difference between the foot and the center of the tool.

Use the button to view the original information (in Italian), which explains for the tractors, plate fingers should be adjusted to 19.7 mm + or - .05 of a mm above the level of the flange (referred to as M in the directions).